Trevor Stuurman Faces Allegations of Appropriation from Artist Collective Woza Sisi
As the dispute heads to court, the art world faces questions about ownership, accountability, and creative justice.

Trevor Stuurman at the exclusive premiere of Shaka Ilembe at Monte Casino on June 13, 2023
This story was originally posted May 15, 2025, at 03:14 p.m. and has been updated. May 15, 09:15 p.m. Updated to exclude images not related to the IP infringement by The Woza Sisi Collective. The Collective supplied the images to highlight that the works in Stuurman's exhibition are similar to those of other artists, artists unaffiliated with Woza Sisi.
Stretching across three floors at THK Gallery in Cape Town, Your Beauty Is Our Concern, the latest exhibition by renowned fashion photographerTrevor Stuurman, is visually striking. The show gestures toward aspirations within Black and brown communities often excluded from the mainstream, featuring meticulously arranged portraits of men's haircuts carved into logos like LV, Nike, Adidas, and Puma. But just days after opening, the exhibition sparked controversy.
A woman-led collective called The Woza Sisi Collective accused Stuurman and THK Gallery of copyright infringement, citing disturbing similarities to their 2023 exhibition Your Beauty Is My Concern. "Passing someone else's work without credit or passing it off as your own is not homage; it is theft," Tsholofelo Kodisang, a member of the collective, posted on Instagram and shared side-by-side posters of the two exhibitions.
Now, the matter is headed to court.
"I was caught off-guard by the title," Kodisang tells OkayAfrica. She then called the collective's founder, the artist and researcher Dahlia Maubane, drawing her attention to it. Maubane founded the collective to increase visibility for women artists, especially those documenting everyday life and informal economies. Their 2023 show centred around multimedia works focused on women who braid hair in public spaces, particularly in Johannesburg's CBD.
Left: An announcement of Woza Sisi's exhibition in 2023. Right: Stuurman's exhibition announcement last month.
Photo by The Woza Sisi Collective
Maubane was despondent, but Kodisang was adamant that something could be done. "People have been saying that Trevor's been doing work on hair. We've seen his work on hair, and that's okay. But the work on hair that he's doing now, he's never done work on salons. With this show, it's specific. When we did Your Beauty Is My Concern, we were responding to [Maubane's] work," says Kodisang.
Then, they had considered different themes. Kodisang created something that aligned with her established self-portraiture work, while Simphiwe Julia Thabede, another member of the collective, made a collage that inspired the show's title. "There are too many similarities between our work," Kodisang explains. "It's just a one-word difference. He's done work on hair before, but never specifically on hair salons. When we reviewed his artist statement, we recognized our bias, but couldn't ignore that his text didn't reflect his work. Instead, it read remarkably similar to our own written material."
Stuurman responded to questions that OkayAfrica posed via THK Gallery: "Being accused of theft and having my character questioned in public has been deeply hurtful – especially because my work has always centered Black beauty, particularly the strength, dignity, and creativity of Black women," he states.
"These allegations are fundamentally misaligned with who I am and the values that guide my practice. The title Your Beauty Is Our Concern was not borrowed from anyone's work or collective. It is a phrase that exists widely in the hair and beauty industry, particularly in Black communities. You'll find it on posters in salons and barbershops. To now be accused of misappropriation for referencing a phrase deeply embedded in our everyday visual culture feels unfair and dismissive of the broader context that informs my art."
Stuurman’s references. A common hair braiding salon poster featuring a collage of braided hairstyles, often seen on the walls of African hair salons and beauty supply shops.
Photo by THK Gallery
Writer, filmmaker, and cultural worker Motheo Mamabolo amplified the issue in a widely shared Instagram video and later expanded on her thoughts in an interview with OkayAfrica. "We need to redirect the conversation to Woza Sisi," she urges. "Their work already existed in publication and in exhibition. This is about more than just credit. It's about how the creative sector handles the re-manufacturing of ideas, especially when those ideas come from underrepresented voices."
Mamabolo insists that, at the very least, Woza Sisi deserves acknowledgement. "What would have been meaningful is a clear gesture of engagement — to credit the collective, to recognize that the title and the framing weren't born in isolation."
For his part, Stuurman maintains that the inspiration came from everyday visual culture that surrounds us, particularly in the township and urban barbershops and salons. Phrases like Your Beauty Is Our Concern appear on posters and signage all over these spaces. They're part of a rich, visual vernacular that speaks to care, transformation, and community.
The controversy has sparked a broader reckoning within South Africa's art world about the slippery boundary between homage and appropriation, especially where power, race, and gender intersect. Woza Sisi's work, grounded in community and collaboration, aims to affirm the dignity and ingenuity of women whose labour often goes unnoticed. Stuurman's exhibition, while aesthetically captivating, now faces questions over whether it extracts from that same well of creativity without offering due recognition.
The gallery maintains its support for Stuurman, stating: "The exhibition is curated with care, cultural awareness, and a long-standing commitment to celebrating Black beauty and identity. The matter has been escalated into a legal process; we were advised to allow the proper channels to unfold and refrain from public commentary. We remain committed to fostering a platform for dialogue, representation, and the authentic expression of African narratives."
What's at stake is not just attribution, but visibility; who gets to be celebrated, and who is rendered invisible.
During OkayAfrica's visit to the gallery, a representative said a meeting was arranged between the two parties, but Woza Sisi "never showed up."
Kodisang says they were told that Stuurman wouldn't be present and resorted to legal representation at that point. The collective posted the court documents on Monday. "THK's attorneys contacted our attorneys because the matter was supposed to appear in court today. They asked for a postponement to next Wednesday," she tells us.
As the court date looms, so does a larger question: how can the art world make space for collective memory, without erasing those who shaped it?
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