Maha Barsoom Brings Egyptian Cuisine to the Michelin Guide

"The first thing I [ever] made was chocolate cake with toffee caramel," she remembers in an interview with OkayAfrica. "My aunt visited us from Alexandria, so I prepared it for her. After that, my mom let me go into the kitchen, because it was amazing. I taught myself and observed my family."

In Egypt, opening a restaurant never occurred to her. When she moved to Canada at 35, working as a translator and interpreter while raising two children kept her fully occupied. Once her children, Monica and Mark, graduated from university, she seized her chance.

"I thought if Monica and Mark would assist me, and we could all share this idea, it would be great. They'd both graduated and neither had jobs, so I thought we might as well do this," Barsoom says. "Both of them said no. They will have no life, and it will be extremely difficult. So I left it alone."

Mark was sceptical that non-Egyptians would be willing to try food they did not know, but Barsoom was confident in her craft. "I knew that I had something to offer to society and that I would succeed," she says. As a translator, Barsoom used to attend events that served 'Middle Eastern Food.' "My Egyptian part was really hurt," she laughs. "I needed to teach people about Egyptian cuisine and that there is a big difference between 'Middle Eastern' and Egyptian."

She started posting her cooking online and garnered so much interest that she began operating a catering service from inside her home. Her food's reputation spread, and her children learned from her, until they eventually changed their minds about the restaurant idea.

"[Ten years ago] I was in Egypt, because my mother was sick," remembers Barsoom. "Monica called me, saying, 'I have a surprise for you. We prepared the menu.' It was all the dishes I fed them growing up. My mother was in a stable condition again, so I went back to Canada, and we started looking for a place right away."

The menu includes everything needed for a complete Egyptian brunch, and more. Mixing nostalgic dishes from their childhoods with fan favorites, Maha's Brunch has fūl (fava beans), falafel, homemade feta cheese with tomatoes, basterma sausage, shakshouka, liver sandwiches, and Barsoom's favorite meal growing up: belila (creamy Egyptian wheat porridge ).

"There's a shawarma sandwich I used to eat after university or when the professor didn't show up," says Barsoom. "We'd go to this place called Abu Haidar in Heliopolis, which made the best shawarma ever, in buns, not in pitas or rolls. I was inspired and created Maha's Mindblowing Chicken Sandwich." Monica named it.

In addition to fulfilling her lifelong dream, Barsoom's perseverance eventually paid off in 2022, when a lady came to the restaurant and gifted Barsoom an envelope. In it, she found that Maha's Brunch was recommended in the Michelin Guide for Toronto. She has been featured in the guide every year since.

"Somebody who comes without our knowledge eats the same dish a couple of times," explains Barsoom. "They don't only look at the taste. They look at the service, the cleanliness of the place, and how the dishes are presented and decorated."

Why a mention in the guide and not a star? Maha's Brunch does not serve alcohol or have a white tablecloth service. These requirements are a testament to the enduring hegemony of Western cultural norms. "I don't want to serve alcohol, and I like guests to be at ease when they eat at my place," says Barsoom. "I like them to feel that they are at my dining table in my house."

Now that Barsoom has established her food as one of Toronto's most excellent spots, she is ready to hand the restaurant over to her children. "They are innovative and keen on having everything perfect," she says. "I think they will take the restaurant to a higher level."