The profile of African fashion keeps rising. At OkayAfrica we are simply excited at the state of African fashion and all that can still be achieved. A new crop of designers are fuelling its renaissance, but they aren’t the only moving parts. A whole other segment of artisans and local craftspeople exist; they are behind some of the stellar products you might have seen on runways or campaigns last season.

We have come a long way from the in-season and ubiquitous wax prints, a fashion trend that will stay forever. We are now at the point where Fashion Weeks on the continent are generating their own trends from the runway. And, in some cases, shaped by trends outside of those arenas. Be it in bold prints and clashing colors, or the tassel-fringed bags that burst out from Lagos Fashion Week two seasons ago.

As with every new year, it’s a new slate to try something new or continue what works. African fashion has been steadily entrenching various themes and ethos into its ecosystem. As such, we spoke to players and experts to tell us where the industry is headed in 2024.

Tsitse Okorodudu (designer, Sise)

Okorodudu: I think we are entering the maximalist era of African fashion. I see brands and people in general being a bit more ambitious with their fashion choices. I see the return of capris, not just in leggings but in regular trousers. Maxi skirts, co-ords and oversized but structured silhouettes are trends that I see popping up this year.

Short suits, bubble hems and layering of mesh are some fashion choices I expect African brands to tap into. As far as colors go – blues, lavenders, and purples will be pretty common.

Lastly, I see the use of hairstyles more as accessories than simply hair.

Francesco Mbele (Fashion Creative)

Mbele: From my perspective, fashion in Africa is shifting to a more personal style-oriented mode. Trends are definitely things that will influence the way people dress but individual style will be more situated in a broader sense to what they are genuinely interested in, largely due to the oversaturation of trends.

Mbele's ins: Loud patterns and expressive contrasting bright colors. The type of stuff your uncle would wear to a wedding, that’s in. Unique sports jerseys, not exclusive to football. Last year was a big year for football jerseys but now I think it will expand to basketball, American football and possibly even hockey.

Niche and upcoming city-based brands, platforms and designers. It has always been special to have something that no one has, and traveling somewhere and buying something or importing something area-specific, is a special way to do that. For example, a t-shirt from a Carribean food pop-up in Paris.

Do it yourself. Now is the time to really take things into your hands when it comes to fashion. Oh you need to fix your skirt? Sew it yourself? You want to make a dress from a particular fabric? Commission somebody to make it. Creating unique fashion stories is in our control now more than ever.

Mbele's outs: Mass manufacture clothing. I don’t think I even need to explain this but Zara and H&M have somewhat started to make their clothing seem more well-designed and unique but it’s a facade you shouldn’t buy into.

Bland tonal dressing. I don’t think it’s completely out but I do believe it has evolved, now it’s more about getting tones right but also adding a unique touch whether it be in texture or a touch of color.

Fikile Sokhulu (Designer)

Sokhulu: There’s a placed importance on visual storytelling, the core of most African brands is the desire to tell African stories in a way that builds and uplifts the culture. Design is based on the context of giving authentic identity. There's a new form of storytelling, especially aimed at preserving cultures through pictures and visual representation.

Ulindelwe Ratsibe (Fashion Commentator)

Ratsibe: I believe this year will be a big year for direct-to-consumer sales in Africa on an e-commerce level as well as more brands opening stores. While a lot of brands make their bread and butter from DTC, a lot of the younger brands will be less focused on global stockists and move to building their infrastructure to sell directly to their audience.

Tia Adeola and Thebe Magugu have both started to focus more on sales. With the imminent launch of Lukhanyo Mdingi’s e-commerce store, we will see many more brands follow suit.

We will have more brands releasing collections off-schedule. More brands will move away from our traditional fashion weeks in favor of trade shows and digital campaigns like their counterparts on the global schedule. The focus will be on growing revenue and customer bases instead of growing brand awareness.

Guzangs (Fashion Curator)

Guzangs: The Guzangs team’s foresight into the African fashion industry for 2024 paints a picture of a flourishing ecosystem, marked by empowerment, sustainability, and global relevance. The anticipated rise of African fashion entrepreneurs and startups, buoyed by increased access to funding and mentorship programs, is poised to fuel a surge in creativity, innovation, and entrepreneurship, catalyzing holistic growth across the industry.

A noteworthy aspect of this vision is the resurgence of traditional textiles and craftsmanship, reflecting a renewed commitment to preserving and promoting indigenous techniques. This trend harmonizes seamlessly with the growing global appetite for authenticity and an appreciation for unique, handcrafted pieces that tell compelling stories of cultural heritage.

In response to the escalating environmental consciousness among consumers, the Guzangs team foresees a substantial increase in sustainable fashion initiatives within the African fashion industry in 2024. Designers are expected to prioritize eco-friendly practices throughout the entire production process, signaling a transformative shift towards sustainable fashion.

Mariam Taiwo (Stylist)

Taiwo: For African fashion, I’d say I’m seeing more bright striped textiles whether it’s embroidery or prints. I think trouser suits will continue to be on the rise, probably more pastel in the summer and darker in the winter. The trouser suit is here to stay in 2024.