‘Crowns of Africa’ Explores the Untold History and Cultural Roots of Fulani Braids

Many braided hairstyles originated from Africa – that much has been established on OkayAfrica’s video series, Crowns of Africa. From its name alone, it should be pretty obvious where Fulani braids originated from, unless you’re one of many who’ve only seen the hairstyle on American R&B icon Alicia Keys or rap star Doechii without any nominal info. The third episode of the four-part series explores the West and Central African origins of Fulani braids, named after one of the largest ethnic groups spread across multiple countries.

“Traditionally, the style called for five long braids fashioned into loops or left to hang to frame the face, with a coiffure braided into the center of the head,” OkayAfrica Social Media Reporter Zinhle Ngema explains. During the transatlantic slave trade, Fulani braids and other forms of braids were instrumental in communication networks among women, adding utility to the regal elegance of the hairstyle. With modernization, the braid style “now manifests in many different ways.”

In Lagos, Rebecca, the owner of a salon from Borno state in northeast Nigeria, shares how she got into making hair, from cornrow variations to styles involving rubber threads. She explains the uniqueness of Fulani braids, their combination of cornrows and braiding. “The Fulani hair symbolizes status,” Rebecca says of its historical importance. “It’s used to identify marital status, or heritage and family.” She also shows us a mini-jar of a special oil (extracted from cow’s milk) she uses when making Fulani braids.

In New York, resident Crowns of Africa hairstylist and owner of Hanifa’s African Hair Braiding salon, Fatima recreates the Fulani braids. She takes viewers through the process of making box braids in the back, cornrows in the front, and a middle braid at the top.

You can watch episode three of Crowns of Africa below.