Mar. 24, 2021 07:25AM EST

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Mowalola Ogunlesi's 'Psychedelic' collection.

11 Women-Led African Fashion Brands Making a Global Impact

From Sarah Diouf's Tongoro to Loza Maléombho and Sindiso Khumalo's eponymous labels, here are 11 trailblazing African brands owned by women designers.

While in Nigeria for Arise Fashion Week in 2018, British supermodel, Naomi Campbell, told the international press about the need for the Vogue magazine franchise to have an African title.

The proposal of a Vogue Africa is an obvious wink at the immense creativity from the African fashion industry; a wave of designers rethinking the paradigms of African fashion. And a handful of them are women, pushing creative innovations and engaging with local communities in preserving age-old methods of textile production. Their collaboration with artisans in honing traditional craft skills has provided employment, especially economic empowerment for rural women.

As fast fashion continues to overproduce garments, with countries like Ghana since becoming a huge receptacle for these garments to arrive as second-hand desirables, some designers are bringing awareness to this crisis of waste, the filling up of landfills and degradation of the environment in the process.

Because the global fashion landscape is dominated by white gatekeepers sustaining narrow beauty aesthetics, predominantly giving platform and access to white designers and operating on excess, it's important to recognise the work of African labels helmed by women especially in the area of environmental justice and making strides in innovation.

Below are 11 impactful African brands with women at the helm. The list is in no particular order.

1. Sindiso Khumalo

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Earning a master's degree in textile futures at Central Saint Martins, South African sustainable fashion and textile designer, Sindiso Khumalo, launched her eponymous brand in 2015. Adopting an empowerment-led, community-driven approach by working with artisans and making garments from naturally sourced materials like cotton and hemp, Khumalo's design milieu tells stories about historic women from her country and across the Black diaspora.

She's also decorated with international fashion laurels: Independent Designer of the Year at the Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2020, recognising her contributions to sustainability and a 2020 LVMH Prize finalist.

2. Tongoro

After carrying out intensive market research and wanting to amplify the image of African women in the fashion industry, stylist and entrepreneur, Sarah Diouf, launched Tongoro in 2016 in Dakar, Senegal. The brand is unequivocally African and subverts concepts of luxury by being affordable and having a model that empowers local communities and promotes Senegalese craftsmanship. Diouf did this by training a team of local artisans in her home country to make quality garments to international standards. The Tongoro aesthetic is unwaveringly bold but also playfully feminine–billowing dresses and vivacious prints–and doesn't compromise in promoting the Made-in-Africa label.

3. Hanifa

In 2020, the coronavirus pandemic presented new challenges for the global fashion industry to navigate. And while it saw many brands pivoting towards digital mediums to showcase collections, womenswear label Hanifa unveiled a virtual 3D fashion show that became a viral sensation, reverberating through the corridors of fashion in the process. US-based Congolese designer, Anifa Mvuemba, was behind this technological feat. Her first runway show since establishing the brand in 2012, she turned the limitations imposed by the pandemic into a resounding success. With bold colors and precise tailoring, Mvuemba is unequivocally concerned with dressing Black women, especially fuller, curvier Black women who often are underrepresented in the fashion industry.

4. Selly Raby Kane

Born and raised in Dakar, Selly Raby Kane is one of Senegal's most renowned designers pioneering a booming creative movement in her home country, a multidisciplinary artist whose creative footprint overlaps beyond fashion and into the realms of art, film, sculpture, etc. After quitting law school in Paris, she returned to Senegal and launched her brand in 2008, her garments marked by the seamless juxtaposition of traditional West African textiles and futuristic elements drawn from watching American science fiction, horror, fantasy, supernatural movies as a child.

In 2018, Swedish furniture brand IKEA collaborated with her and other African creatives to design a collection for their homeware range. For the collection, Kane made a basket out of braided hair, referencing the culture of hair braiding in West Africa.

5. Nkwo

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After years of cultivating an Afro-bohemian chic aesthetic since 2007, founder and creative director, Nkwo Onwuka, relaunched her eponymous brand in 2012 with a new ethos: environmental consciousness. Turning to traditional textile handcrafts and preserving the artisanal legacies and skills in local communities, the Dakala fabric was the innovation that emerged from exploring weaving techniques using leftover denim. Today, the brand is at the forefront of the sustainability movement in Nigeria, operating on the ''philosophy of less'' mantra as a way to address fashion's waste problem and its negative impact on the environment.

6. Deola Sagoe

As one of Nigeria's enduring fashion brands with international acclaim, Deola Sagoe brought opulence and romanticism with its innovative use of aso-oke, a handwoven cloth worn by the Yorubas in South-Western Nigeria. Tinkering with the textile overtime produced functional bespoke pieces known as Komole, skewed towards the high-end market with its laser-cut intricacy, patterns, colour range, and modern silhouettes. At the brand's creative helm is Deola, who is not just dressing different generations of women, but is also staying true to her cultural heritage.

7. Mowalola

While some became aware of Mowalola Ogunlesi in 2020, when she was hired by Kanye West to design for the Yeezy-Gap collaboration, the Nigerian-British designer had already enraptured the fashion crowd with her brand's neon punkish leather, cut skimpily in skirts, tanks, crop tops, halter dresses, and other bizarrely sleek pieces.

Born in Lagos, Nigeria, Mowalola went to Central Saint Martins and channels her Nigerian roots in her work. Her BA collection was an ode to Lagos petrolheads and Nigeria's '70s and '80s psych-rock scene in a way that challenged the current mores around African masculinity. Not afraid to incorporate profanity and religious motifs into her designs, Mowalola has fashioned a brand now synonymous with sex and youth.

8. Chloe Asaam

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Born in Ghana, Chloe Asaam's fledgling brand came about as an alternative to Kantamanto, where Ghana's biggest secondhand clothing trade takes place, a fast-fashion economy receiving 15 million secondhand garments per week from the Global North which consequently leads to overwhelming waste. The Accra-based womenswear designer repurposes fabrics from the market like cotton and linens, combining them with traditional Ghanaian textiles in refreshing, innovative ways. She also incorporates QR codes into garments to supply details on how they are made.

With sustainability thrown around in the fashion industry as a buzzword, Asaam is providing traceability. In a photo series, her brand was recently spotlighted by Mercedes Benz Fashion Week last November, zooming in as one of the emerging talents in Ghana.

9. Loza Maléombho

Beyoncé in the music video for 'Already' featuring Shatta Wale & Major Lazer.

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Making clothes rooted in the rich cultural spectrum of Cote d'Ivoire, where Loza Maléombho is from, has always been foundational to her brand's make-up. Founded in 2009, her namesake womenswear label has been flipping these references to accommodate the wide-angled facets of Maléombho's upbringing–Brazil, Abidjan, the US–with also a lean towards West African royalty. Her collections over the years have seen deconstruction and juxtapositions, traditional textiles that flatter the feminine form through modern cuts and styling. In synergy with local artisans and craftspeople, the brand has produced ethnic jewelry and footwear with tribal touches.

Celebrities like Iman, Kelly Rowland and Solange Knowles have been seen in her pieces. And perhaps the biggest moment for the brand to date was Beyoncé in a custom shoulder-padded blazer in the Black Is King film.

10. Deepa Dosaja

Deepa Dosaja is one of Kenya's top fashion brands founded in 1991, and known for its signature hand-embroidery and appliqué. Over the years, the brand has focused on working with local communities in Kenya to create employment such as tailors, beaders, cutters and training them as well. In 2015, the label dressed Lupita Nyong'o for her Kenyan homecoming. In 2018, the label participated in the inaugural Commonwealth Fashion Exchange at Buckingham Palace, London, an initiative for emerging and established fashion talents from across the Commonwealth's 53 countries to showcase the power and potential of artisanal fashion skills.

Exchanging with artisans from Zambia, Deepa Dosaja created a hand-painted, hand-embroidered bespoke piece made from organic silk locally produced in Kenya. Behind the label is Deepa Dosaja herself, who is also concerned with reducing waste and encouraging recycling.

11. Doreen Mashika

After working and studying in Switzerland, Doreen Mashika returned to her home country of Tanzania to pursue fashion, setting her eponymous label in the cosmopolitan environment of Zanzibar. Inspired by the textiles of her Tanzanian heritage and Zanzibar's breezy, Island aura, Doreen Mashika's collections feature East African wax print Kitenge done in frocks and beach-ready dresses. The brand has also shifted towards accessories from bags to jewellery; combining materials in an interesting way.

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Trevor Noah Wins Prestigious Erasmus Prize

Trevor Noah is the first comic to win the prestigious Erasmus Prize since Charlie Chaplin in 1965.

Popular South African comic Trevor Noah has won the prestigious Erasmus Prize from The Praemium Erasmianum Foundation The award is named after Dutch philosopher Desiderius Erasmus' most famous piece of work.

According to a statement from The Praemium Erasmianum Foundation, Noah was receiving the prize “for his inspired contribution to the theme ‘In Praise of Folly,’ named after Erasmus’s most famous book, which is filled with humor, social criticism and political satire.” (Desiderius Erasmus was a an influential Dutch philosopher from the northern Renaissance era.)

Noah is the first comic since 1965 who has been awarded the honor. The last comic to win the prize was Charlie Chaplin, who received the honor in 1965. Since 1958, The Erasmus Prize has been awarded to recipients who are recognized for a wide range of achievements, including literature, music, philosophy, and social activism. Some of the notable recipients who have received the award in the past include Jorge Luis Borges, Isaiah Berlin, Ingmar Bergman, and Amartya Sen.

The panel who selects awardees for the prize include a committee of scholars and cultural experts who review nominations and make a recommendation to the board of the Praemium Erasmianum Foundation after weighing in on the strength of each candidate. After the recommendation, it is then up to the board to make the final decision on the recipient of the award. The prize is typically awarded in the fall during a ceremony in the Dutch royal palace in Amsterdam.

Beyond his work as a comic, the former Daily Show host has been vocal about his social justice advocacy and has been a strong advocate for human rights issues on a general scale. While he was a host on The Daily Show, he consistently used his voice to highlight other prominent Africans. It is safe to say that the 39-year-old has indeed made South Africa proud.

Style

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The Best Style Moments of Tems

From normcore, Y2K-inspired streetwear, figure-hugging catsuits to high-fashion formalwear, the style of the alt R&B superstar has matured over the years.

With a Grammy win now among her accolades, Tems’ crossover campaign continues to hit spectacular highs. Selling out shows, collaborating with Future and Drake, conquering global charts, lending her voice to a Marvel movie soundtrack, and brunching with JAY-Z and Beyoncé are some of the things her star power has pulled.

Tems, whose 2019 breakout single “Try Me” locked down decent fame in Nigeria, was introduced to fresh ears overseas on Wizkid’s monster hit “Essence.” The Nigerian singer-songwriter has since begun her ascent into stardom. As such, her wardrobe has scaled up significantly. It has found a confident balance between upward luxury and cool-girl DIY-ness. The latter is a holdover from Lagos, bootstrapping as an artiste in the city’s alté scene.

Her stylist, Dunsin Wright, is the creative force behind her many statement looks, especially the hot streak of red carpet moments. Even so, Tems’ body is a marvel on its own, — shapely proportions that reward the camera. And therein lies the complicated relationship between an artist on the come-up and bodily anxieties. A female artiste, to be clear, who styled herself in plain, functional clothes, sunnies and sneakers, with natural hair swooped up or done in long box braids.

Sometimes a catsuit, but big shirts, jackets, and loose pants were a matter of practicality. Additionally, these wardrobe choices appeared to be a self-effacing maneuver around female objectification and to keep the focus on her music.

For corroboration: her Instagram photos were often captured in portraits. And when she stood in full view, a frontal pose was only offered. On social media, a viral appetite took hold, asking her to show more skin or give a back pose.

While Tems hasn’t explicitly addressed this, she’s currently cognizant of the demands of being a celebrity without straying too much from personal comfort. Her style journey is still ongoing. In the meantime, we select her best looks with all the style inspo it brings.

Tems Wearing Pleated Robert Wun

For her 2022 London tour that hit a stop at famous concert venue KOKO, Tems showed up on stage wearing Robert Wun. A custom teal matching set elevated by dramatic accordion pleats. Her long box braids, though the singer’s signature style, harmonized with the flowy pleated details of the look. The show of cleavage from the plunging neckline has been a continuing theme for Tems.

Wun, a London-based Hong Kong designer, had showed off the look in his studio before the concert. On Tems, it was a technical understanding of proportions. But what makes wearing Robert Wun such a big deal is that Wun’s couture debut in Paris was darkly gorgeous, and received praise from the industry.

Perhaps in the future, Tems can reunite with Wun in something decidedly couture to hit the red carpet.

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Tems At the 2022 BET Awards

Tems won Best International Act at the 2022 BET Awards. She made history, becoming the first Nigerian female artist to be a recipient. On the red carpet, she made a show-stopping statement wearing a custom black bustier gown with a thigh-high slit.

From Dilara Findikoglu, it’s interesting to see Tems wear a creation from the rising Turkish-British designer. The gown is Tems’ first black formalwear on a huge stage, in strap heels and a Swarovski necklace to boot. For her glam look, her signature glossy ombre lips and wispy lashes were just right for the occasion.

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA - JUNE 26: Tems poses in the press room during the 2022 BET Awards at Microsoft Theater on June 26, 2022 in Los Angeles, California.Photo by Robin L Marshall/Getty Images For BET

Tems at the 2022 BMI London Awards

Tems joined big winners at the BMI London Awards, taking home the prestigious Impact prize, in recognition of her artistry, creative vision and impact on the future of music. Holding a silver box clutch with an iridescent shimmer, hoop earrings, and stiletto nails polished in metallic chrome, her outfit for the ceremony merged her love for catsuits with a red carpet sensibility.

A white turtleneck gown in stretch silk crepe. London-based photographer Bet Bettencourt, who has been taking photos of Tems at events, showed another view of the gown on Instagram after the awards were over. A slew of sizzling snaps revealed a huge cutout at the back and a comfortable pose.

Tems on the red carpet in a white dress. LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 03: Tems attends the 2022 BMI London Awards at The Savoy Hotel on October 03, 2022 in London, England.Photo by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images for BMI London Awards

Tems at the 2022 Global Citizen Festival: Accra

Performing at the Global Citizen concert in Ghana, Tems slipped in a turquoise blue lace catsuit with front cutouts from Brielle. The satin wrap of a mini skirt was a nice accent piece, held together by a crystal clasp that could be mistaken for a brooch.

Cuffing her wrist was a diamond bracelet, feet in silver pumps. Given the outdoor concert atmosphere, it was a fun, playful attire. And it’s not surprising to see Tems accessorize with white sunglasses, an ever-present staple in her wardrobe.

Tems in a turquoise body suit and white sunglasses ACCRA, GHANA - SEPTEMBER 24: Tems performs on stage during Global Citizen Festival 2022: Accra on September 24, 2022 in Accra, Ghana.Photo by Jemal Countess/Getty Images for Global Citizen

Tems at Coperni's SS' 2023 runway show

Last year, Parisian brand Coperni grabbed headlines for spraying a dress onto Bella Hadid. This was their spring/summer 2023 show, and Tems was in attendance. Leaving the looming, Romanesque architecture of the venue, the Salle des Textiles of the National Museum of Arts and Crafts in Paris, the singer was dressed in Coperni herself.

A jet-black stretch satin bodycon dress, with a twist and cutout detailing. The thigh-high slit, sheer socks in Coperni bridge platform sandals, and pin-straight hair brought edginess to the picture. A crystal-embellished ring pouch bag from the brand was a statement accessory, subtly contrasting the all-black ensemble.

The dark sunglasses gave a futuristic, techno-chic vibe, an aesthetic Coperni has been working into their brand to redefine the lexicon of French style. That night, Tems took a photo with the founders, Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, showing a decent infiltration into the high-fashion circle.

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Tems in Tommy Jeans

For this photo Tems posted on Instagram, she wore top-to-bottom Tommy Hilfiger and Tommy Jeans. The overlay of the colorblock windbreaker, triangle sports bralette, baggy jeans, open-toe heels, and chunky belly chain can only be described as streetwear chic. More importantly, it’s a delicate juxtaposition of the masculine and feminine dressing codes Tems had been embracing.

Anyone who followed ‘90s pop culture (think Aaliyah) and the renaissance of Y2K fashion will surely appreciate the look. Tems wearing a classic American brand isn’t a random occurrence. In late 2021, she announced she had secured a deal with the global clothing brand. And in 2022, we saw her lead a campaign for Tommy Jeans, the diffusion that targets a younger market.

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Tems in Vivienne Westwood at the 2023 Grammys

With three nominations coming into the 65th Grammys, Tems bagged her first Grammy award in the Best Melodic Rap Performance category. It was for Future’s “Wait For U” featuring herself and Drake, making her the first Nigerian female artist to receive such honor.

Tems played up her femininity, styling her hair into space buns, wearing a gold-corseted Vivienne Westwood number. The bodice had the corset built in, with a draping from the waist that fell into a sweeping train. The nipped-waist silhouette flattered her curves. Layered pearl necklace and gold Tom Ford pumps, it was inarguably a moment of high fashion for the star.

Tems on the red carpet in a gold dress. LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA - FEBRUARY 05: Tems attends the 65th GRAMMY Awards on February 05, 2023 in Los Angeles, California. Photo by Lester Cohen/Getty Images for The Recording Academy

Tems on the Cover of Dazed Magazine

For Dazed magazine’s winter 2022 issue, Tems landed as the latest cover star. “Uncut Tems: the rise and reign of the queen of alté R&B” was the headline, and it remains her most provocative editorial spread to date. So much so that she was criticized by internet trolls for which she took to social media to defend herself.

With styling from Ibrahim Kamara, the photo shoot served up sultry images of the singer. Particular standouts: the form-fitting translucent beige dress from Dilara Findikoglu with a bodysuit underneath, strap heels and fringe-framing hair. In another shot: a Sportsmax faux fur coat worn over a Chloé leather dress, and vintage Susan Caplan gold necklace feels like a refreshing take on old Hollywood glamour.

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Tems' Couture at the 2023 Oscars

Nominated for Best Original Song for the Black Panther: Wakanda Forever track “Lift Me Up,” Tems arrived at her first Oscars in a sculptural, gravity-defying puff of couture. Even though she didn’t win (it was a tough category), she turned heads (literally).

By Ukranian designer, Lesya Verlingieri of Lever Couture, Tems was a commanding presence of sophistication on the sand-hued carpet. Further, it showed her maturing confidence as of late. Hand sculpted from gauzy nylon mesh, the bold and breathtaking silhouette newly placed her in the canon of celebrities to look out for at high-caliber events.

With no necklace on Tems, we aren’t sure if this is leaning into the “no-necklace” trend amongst celebrities on the red carpet. Not that the look needed one, anyway. Going bare was smart to maintain a clean focus on what she was wearing. Attending the Vanity Fair Oscar Party, the sculptural hood and elegant puff gave way to a slightly more stripped-down attire.

A cat ear-shaped bustier in black silk crepe, built into a full skirt with drape detail. Thigh-high slit? Of course, a repeated motif we are sure to see more of. For accessories, a transparent PVC choker with a cutout had dots of Swarovski crystals. Altogether, it had a smattering of kinky, a dip into the bondage aesthetic Tems can possibly dial up in the future.

Tems in a puffy white dress a the 95th Oscars carpet. HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - MARCH 12: Tems attends the 95th Annual Academy Awards on March 12, 2023 in Hollywood, California.Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images

Tems in black dress on a blue carpet walkway. BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA - MARCH 12: Tems attends the 2023 Vanity Fair Oscar Party Hosted By Radhika Jones at Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts on March 12, 2023 in Beverly Hills, California.Photo by Cindy Ord/VF23/Getty Images for Vanity Fair

Music

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Rema Sends Solidarity Message to the 5 Iranian Women Arrested for Dancing to His Music

Rema has spoken out in support of five Iranian girls who were arrested for dancing to his music.

Nigerian Afropop star Rema, sent out a message of solidarity to five Iranian young women who were reportedly arrested for releasing a video dancing to his music.

On International Women’s Day, which occured on March 8th, the women created a buzz online after they released a video showing themselves dancing to the global smash "Calm Down." In the video, the women were wearing no headscarves, while slightly exposing midriffs.

According to reports, the Iranian government soon caught wind of the video, and began looking for the girls. On March 9th, the Shahrak Ekbatan Twitter account—an account that belongs to activists from the Ekbatan area—first alerted the general public by posting the dancing video online and stating that authorities had been asking residents in the area if they knew the women.

"They looked for CCTV footage of Block 13 to identify the girls who were only dancing and were not involved in any political activity. Police were seen checking the footage and questioning the guards," the account said.

Earlier this week, the Ekbatan-based activists reported that the women had been detained and forced to make an apology video, dressed in regalia that completely covered them from head to toe. The news soon caught the attention of Rema, who tweeted out a solidarity message in support of the women earlier this week.

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Although it is unclear how long the Iranian women were detained for, the Shahrak Ekbatan Twitter commented under the Twitter thread, stating that the girls were apprehended for about two days.

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Historically, Iran girls have faced a number of restrictions that have limited their freedom. Some of these restrictions include legalities that require them to cover their hair and dress modestly in public.

Although there have been demands to abolish the compulsory headscarf rule, no progress has been made in that regard, and the rule is still in effect.

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Ghana Holds State Funeral For Christian Atsu

Ghanaian soccer player Christian Atsu's family and loved ones come together to pay their respects at his funeral at the State House in Accra, Ghana.

Ghana held a state funeral for soccer legend Christian Atsu in Accra on Friday (March 17th). Atsu, who played for the Turkish club Hatayspor, passed away last month after massive earthquakes rocked Turkey. (Those earthquakes, which began on February 6, have killed more than 50,000 people.)

The ceremony was presided over by Ghana's president Nana Akufo-Addo, who joined the soccer star's friends, family, fans, and colleagues to send off Atsu. During the ceremony, the coffin was draped in Ghana's flag's colors and placed under a white tent.

During the ceremony, Atsu's widow Marie-Claire Rupio tearfully shared her last respects to the Ghanaian hero.

"In life, I loved you, in death, I do the same. It breaks my heart to lose you. You did not go alone. Part of you in me left with you. Your love is still my guide, though I cannot see you. Your smile, your love, I see in my children’s smile... You did not leave alone—a part of me went with you. Your love continues to guide me... You seemed immortal. Your smile, your love, I see you in the smile of our children."

After weeks of searching, Atsu's remains were recovered near the destroyed building where he lived in Antakya, Turkey on February 18.

Atsu—who was 31 at the time of his death and who had just joined the club last year—began his career in 2011 and quickly became known as one of the Black Stars' best players, adopting the name "Ghanaian Messi." He went on to play for several European clubs, including Chelsea, Newcastle United, Al-Raed, and Hatayspor, among others.

During his career, Atsu represented the Ghana national football team and garnered over 60 caps and 10 scored goals. At the height of his career, Atsu also participated in several international tournaments with Ghana, including the Africa Cup of Nations and the FIFA World Cup. The celebrated Ghanaian sportsman was known for his well-times space, his ability to dribble strategically, and the way he created scoring opportunities for himself and his teammates.

Atsu leaves behind his widow and three children.

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